Episode 18 of the podcast returns us to Niigata Prefecture and the snow country of Matsunoyama. Famous for its very heavy snowfall, Matsunoyama is a place in many ways defined by that snow. The hardship of living there has long necessitated ingenuity, resilience and a strong community that must work together in order to survive. Over centuries, a unique culture developed around life in the snow and though modern infrastructure and machinery have made life a little easier, it remains a challenging yet beautiful place to live. Snow is on the ground in Matsunoyama for much of the year and even when it is not, preparing for the next winter defines a lot of what goes on there all year round.
Matsunoyama, Niigata: Challenges & Opportunities of Life in the Deep Snow with Kamimura Shotaro
In this episode I speak with Kamimura Shotaro, a regional revitalisation coordinator based in Matsunoyama. As his job title suggests, Shotaro’s work tasks him with revitalisation of the community and as such, we discuss the multiple challenges being faced by the people of Matsunoyama while also exploring the opportunities of life in the deep snow. This episode highlights the reality for many communities in the snow country and across Japan. Communities that are struggling to sustain themselves in the face of depopulation and an ageing population, changing economies and lifestyles, and climate change. In a place such as Matsunoyama, where identity revolves around the snow and working together as a community, the continued loss of people and reduction of snow are having a big impact. But there is also cause for optimism, something Shotaro and I discuss in the second half of the interview including reasons to visit Matsunoyama.
Nestled within the forests and ravines of the area, Matsunoyama Onsen considered one of Japan’s three great medicinal hot spring towns. Its water source is somewhat unique in that it is trapped, fossilised seawater. Estimated to be 12 million year old, the water surges to the surface at a temperature of around 90C / 194F. The water mineral rich water is easily absorbed by our skin allowing it to heal skin ailments along with many other benefits. The hot spring village is small but offers excellent accommodation options including ‘ryokan’ (guesthouses) with private hot springs and serving seasonal menus designed to show-off the local cuisine culture; and in Niigata, this means Japan’s best rice, fermented foods – very common in the snow country – and ‘sansai’ or wild mountain vegetables.
Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennale - also called Echigo-Tsumari Art Field – is one of the largest events in the snow country, and arguably, one of the most important art events in Japan. First held in 2000, the official festival takes place everything three years – with the next scheduled for summer 2024 – with smaller festivals in the intervening years and many venues accessible all year round. As such, Echigo-Tsumari effectively runs all the time and sees international and Japanese artists collaborate with the local community, in an effort to help bring new people and energy into the region and in doing so revitalise the economy and life there. It’s held over a vast area of heavily of forest mountains with installations typically set within natural landscapes and abandoned, repurposed traditional houses and schools that are transformed into installations in their own right, galleries and museums and event spaces. It is huge in scope and attracts some very big names in the international and Japanese art scene. Matsunoyama is a participating area of the festival, which as Shotaro discusses, hosts multiple installations including ‘Kurokura Palace’ by artist Todo - pictured below. Basically, it needs to be experienced firsthand.
Matsunoyama Onsen Ski Area is a small resort comprised of only 5 ski runs serviced by 2 chairlifts. Situated between 383 to 709 metres above sea level, it is a low resort offering a small 383 meters of vertical but thanks to its location – not far from the coast of the Sea of Japan – receives a lot of snow. Few foreign visitors make it to this most local of ski resorts but those who do enjoy its local atmosphere, big snow and fun tree areas. As discuss with Shotaro, a range of other activities are also available including winter camping. Well worth checking out.
I want to say another big thank you to Shotaro for making time to speaking with me. Should you be interested to learn more about Shotaro and Matsunoyama, you can follow him through his ‘Snow Notes’ website. Shotaro publishes some pages in English with most content in Japanese. The interview was conducted in the charismatic roadhouse teahouse of Matsunoyama Chakra. Operated by local tea farmer Shimamura-san, Matsunoyama Chakra sells his organic tulsi or holy basil tea. The tea is tremendous and the setting is unique. Highly recommended. I hope you enjoy!
Snow Notes
Matsunoyama Onsen
https://www.matsunoyama-onsen.com/
Echigo-Tsumari Art Field
https://www.echigo-tsumari.jp/en/
Matsunoyama Onsen Ski Area
http://www.matsunoyama-ski.com/
Matsunoyama Chakra