Episode 12 of the Snow Country Stories Japan podcast is the first of my intended travel guides for recommended travel destinations in the snow country and as such, there’s no better place to start than Togakushi. Located just outside of Nagano City – technically it’s actually within the city boundaries - Togakushi is home to some of the most important Shinto shrines in Japan and one of the snow country’s most important cultural landscapes.
Togakushi, Nagano: A Snow Country Stories Japan Travel Guide
Mount Togakushi has been a focal point of devotion for more than 1000 years with its shrines and the very name ‘Togakushi’ linked to Shinto creation myths; giving it true significance within Japanese culture through its connection to Amaterasu – the Sun Goddess and Mother Goddess of Japan. It is told that Amaterasu brought light to the world through her brilliant radiance but following a dispute with her brother Susanoo, God of Storms and the Sea, later retreated from the world, returning it to darkness. As retold at the beginning of the episode, the story of ‘Amaterasu and The Heavenly Cave’ accounts for her retreat and how she was eventually lured back into the world by other gods and goddesses and in doing so, gave Togakushi its name and forever connected it to the creation story of Japan itself.
The Togakushi shrine complex reflects the importance of that story and its place within Shintoism. Five main shrines - in order: the ‘Hokosha’, ‘Hinomikosha’, ‘Chu-sha’, ‘Kuzuryusha’ and ‘Okusha’ - are spread through the forest around the base of Mount Togakushi. Forest trails link the shrines and offer the best way to experience the complex. Togakushi has long been a place of pilgrimage for practitioners of Shintoism and Shugendo with the forest trails throughout the area still functioning as pilgrimage trails known as the ‘Togakushi-do’. Based in Nagano, Togakushi is one of my favourite destinations to guide and from May to October I operate my Forest Shrines of Togakushi: Private Nature Hiking Tour. I have designed this tour to take you away from the city and along the trails of Togakushi to visit the main shrines, at a comfortable pace and as a private tour, the itinerary can be customised to your needs and interests.
Mount Togakushi is part of the wider Myoko-Togakushi Renzan National Park. Though relatively small at just under 40,000 hectares, the park is characterised by a series of mountains also including Myoko, Hiuchi, Amakazari, Takatsuma and others, along its verdant forests, lakes, waterfalls and plenty of wildlife. Togakushi is equally well-known for the Togakure-ryu tradition of ninjitsu. Founded by Nishina Daisuke sometime in the 12th century, the exact origins or Togakure-ryu are unknown however the tradition lives on today with people continuing to train and practice of the almost mythical mountain ninja that have long inhabited the forests of Togakushi. The Togakure Ninja Museum and Kids’ Ninja Village are open from April to November.
Togakushi is also home to a gem of a ski resort and one that flies under the radar for international visitors. Typically open from the second half of December until mid to late-March or possibly into April if the snow is good, Togakushi Ski Resort is around 70 to 80 minutes by bus from Nagano Station – the nearest ski resort to Nagano Station – while also easily accessible from nearby resorts including those of Myoko Kogen, Madarao and Nozawa Onsen.
It’s a small resort offering only 58 hectares of terrain across 19 ski runs and serviced by 7 chairlifts but sitting between 1300 to 1749 metres, it enjoys reliable snow that stays in good condition thanks to the combination and inland location which equals cold – often very cold – temperatures through winter. A great option for a day-trip from Nagano City and nearby resorts, Togakushi is one of the most picturesque ski resorts in Nagano and one that is sure to attract more attention from international visitors in coming years.
Reaching Togakushi from Nagano Station is simple using local bus services. Operated by the Alpico Bus company, two lines – No.70 and No.73 - run to different points in Togakushi. The journey to the Lower and Middle Shrines will take around 60 minutes from Nagano Station, 65 minutes to the Upper Shrine and 75 to 80 minutes to the ski resort. Times can be longer in winter due to road conditions. The Alpico bus stand and ticket office is across the road from Nagano Station - under a minutes walk when exiting the station from the Zenkoji Exit. You pay the driver as you disembark. You can pay in cash – exact cash, no change is given – travel card or by purchasing the Zenkoji & Togakushi 1-Day Ticket in advance.
Togakushi is one of my favourite destinations in the snow country and certainly one of my favourite places to guide. Readily accessible from Nagano Station, it offers some of the most engaging and meaningful travel experiences in the snow country with each season offering its own reason to visit. I hope this episode piques your interest in visiting and should you wish to enquire about my tours to Togakushi, I’d love to be part of your experience.