In Episode 09 of Snow Country Stories Japan, we head north to the prefecture of Yamagata. Boasting the highest average snowfall of any prefecture in Japan, Yamagata is well and truly part of the snow country and is known for its natural beauty, abundant farmlands, hot springs and the sacred mountains of ‘出羽三山 / Dewa Sanzan’. Translating as ‘Three Mountains of Dewa’, the mountains of Hagaro-san, Ga-san and Yudono-san are the centre of the ‘Haguro Shugendo’ faith system and as such, have for centuries been the focal point of devotion for practitioners. There are many forms of ‘修験道 / shugendo’, a syncretic faith system blending Shintosim, Buddhism, Taoism, folklore and other elements, the followers of which are referred to both as ‘修験者 / shugenja’ or ‘山伏 / yamabushi’- mountain ascetics.
How to Die Well in the Mountains: Way of the ‘Yamabushi’
Based in Yamagata, Tim Bunting is one such yamabushi and follower of Haguro Shugendo. Originally from New Zealand, Tim is today better known by his moniker the ‘Kiwi Yamabushi’ - documenting his practice on his website while also promoting and supporting yamabushi experiences and training for Japanese, foreign residents and international visitors. In speaking with Tim, we go into a little detail about his practice and the principles of shugendo, his experiences as a yamabushi and the importance of nature worship or spending time in nature.
In traditional Japanese culture, nature and specific natural features are believed to be the repositories of knowledge which cannot be revealed and understood through written or spoken word. In order to access the teachings, we must spend time in nature and by walking or moving through natural landscapes, we absorb the knowledge of the natural world and we ourselves change. Mountains play an especially important role in this practice and the way of the yamabushi involves retreating to the mountains to seek their own death and rebirth – at least in a spiritual sense.
Listeners to previous episodes of the podcast might by now recognise the word yamabushi, as talk of them came up in Episode 03 ‘Of Tengu & Taiko: An Interview with a Wondermensional Woman’, Episode 04 ‘The High Life with Moto the Mountain Guide’ and Episode 06 ‘Shiga Kogen Brewery & The Artistry of Barrel-aged Beers’. I fully expect that the yamabushi will continue to emerge in future conversations, as they do from the forest mountains of Japan, and likewise be a continued point of interest. And for that reason I want to explore more about them and go a little deeper into who they are and what they do in this episode.
It’s important to note that Tim speaks in terms of his practice as a follower of Haguro Shugendo and cannot speak for all yamabushi and different forms of shugendo – of which there are many. As a yamabushi, he is also sworn to secrecy about aspects of his practice and rituals in the mountains therefore a lot must remain unsaid. Nevertheless, Tim provides a compelling account of traditions stretching back more than one thousand years that are just as relevant today as they have ever been.
I’d like to thank Tim for making time to speak with me. Should you want more information, make sure to check out Tim’s wonderful website and follow him on Instagram. Should you be interested in joining a yamabushi experience or training program, please refer to the yamabushido website.
I hope you enjoy!